It was real but surreal, sophisticated but low-key, impeccable but humble when Apu Jan showcased his AW16 collection at the Freemason’s Hall. His calm and clean, yet romantic statement echoed in Covent Garden louder than other bold fashion statements some designers had tried to make.

Apu Jan’s looks consisted of his signature knitwear, chunky floral crop tops (complete with knitting needle) and crochet, granny chic ruffle brim fisherman hats which accentuated emphasised his girly style. We loved the mix of textures throughout the collection, especially the fuzzy peach maxi skirt, pure spring romance.

However the predominant use of black, interesting cut out details and modern silhouettes, such as a cropped, wide leg pair of pastel dungarees, regained the collection’s modern sensitivity.

The perfect balance of an avant-garde touch and a moderate tone is well shown by the most dramatic garments in this collection. A black silk dress with a double strap top and romantic a-line floral print were displayed to show Apu Jan’s ability to be dreamy and versatile while he maintains restraint and consistency.

Text: Lisa Choi

Photography: Rob Parfitt

Apu Jan print

Apu Jan coat

Apu Jan cobalt

Apu Jan dungarees

Apu Jan black and white

Apu Jan knitting needle

Apu Jan shirt

Apu Jan peach

Apu Jan plunge

Apu Jan plunge print